Martin, Richard, & Harold Koda, "Infra-Apparel"
Martin, Richard, & Harold Koda, "Infra-Apparel"
Metropolitan Museum of Art/H.N.Abrams | 1993 | ISBN: 0870996762/0810964309 | English | PDF | 130 pages | 23.78 Mb
Metropolitan Museum of Art/H.N.Abrams | 1993 | ISBN: 0870996762/0810964309 | English | PDF | 130 pages | 23.78 Mb
This exhibition heralds a series of thematic shows conceived to examine various elements in the history of costume, with selections culled primarily from the Museum's own collections. Thus reaffirming the Museum's commitment to collecting and to the care and display of costume, these installations will offer substantial displays year round as well as an extraordinary opportunity to evaluate and appreciate the evolution of costume over the last three centuries.
The depth and scope of our collections should provide the curators with an inexhaustible source of challenging subjects and inspiration for exhibitions, research, publications, and teaching programs far into the next century. It is therefore with much pleasure and great expectation that we offer Infra-Apparel, the first in an exciting series of projects envisioned by our new curators, Mr. Martin and Mr. Koda.
Foreword
Philippe de Montebello
Introduction
Seductive Strata: The Emergence of Underwear
Intimate Iconography: Art's Witness to Dressing
Architectonic Experience: The Corset and Body Shape
Secret Strategies: The Vocabulary of Undress
Analytical Apparel: Deconstruction and Discovery in Contemporary Dress
Glossary
Selected Bibliography
List of Illustrations
Acknowledgments
Philippe de Montebello
Introduction
Seductive Strata: The Emergence of Underwear
Intimate Iconography: Art's Witness to Dressing
Architectonic Experience: The Corset and Body Shape
Secret Strategies: The Vocabulary of Undress
Analytical Apparel: Deconstruction and Discovery in Contemporary Dress
Glossary
Selected Bibliography
List of Illustrations
Acknowledgments
Richard Harrison Martin and Harold Koda; photographs by Neil Selkirk.
Publishers Weekly
"This intriguing if superficial catalogue for an exhibit at the Metropolitan's Costume Institute investigates the cultural meaning of undergarments as "intimate signifiers" and illustrates its themes with photographs and paintings. Brief chapters cover the movement of lingerie from the private to the public arena, a change that dates back to a 1783 painting of Marie Antoinette in a cotton shift; the use of undergarments such as corsets to manipulate body shape; the growing popularity of decorative lingerie; and "deconstruction in contemporary costume," such as slashed T-shirts and visible briefs (as illustrated by Marky Mark's familiar Calvin Klein elastic waistband peeking over the top of his jeans). Other illustrations include Christian Francis Roth's 1991 "hobo suit" with its oversized, colorful patches and Edouard Manet's painting of Nana in her slip. At times an academic tone obscures rather than enlightens with phrases like "the greenhouse-forced cultivation of the decorative" to describe the 19th-century taste for fancy clothing, and there is little discussion of men's underwear. Martin and Koda are curator and associate curator, respectively, of the Costume Institute."
"This intriguing if superficial catalogue for an exhibit at the Metropolitan's Costume Institute investigates the cultural meaning of undergarments as "intimate signifiers" and illustrates its themes with photographs and paintings. Brief chapters cover the movement of lingerie from the private to the public arena, a change that dates back to a 1783 painting of Marie Antoinette in a cotton shift; the use of undergarments such as corsets to manipulate body shape; the growing popularity of decorative lingerie; and "deconstruction in contemporary costume," such as slashed T-shirts and visible briefs (as illustrated by Marky Mark's familiar Calvin Klein elastic waistband peeking over the top of his jeans). Other illustrations include Christian Francis Roth's 1991 "hobo suit" with its oversized, colorful patches and Edouard Manet's painting of Nana in her slip. At times an academic tone obscures rather than enlightens with phrases like "the greenhouse-forced cultivation of the decorative" to describe the 19th-century taste for fancy clothing, and there is little discussion of men's underwear. Martin and Koda are curator and associate curator, respectively, of the Costume Institute."
Martin, Richard, & Harold Koda, "Infra-Apparel"
